Property taxes are still on the upswing in many parts of the U.S. To help get a handle on your property taxes, here’s a look at what goes into determining your bill and a few ideas that may help to reduce it.
Background
Property taxes are typically calculated using two factors:
The assessed value of your property (set by your local assessor)
Your local tax rate (set by schools, counties, fire departments, etc.)
Why this matters: Even if your home’s value doesn’t change, your tax bill can go up if any of the taxing authorities raise their rates. And while setting the tax rates is usually a legislative process, establishing the value of your property often has judgement applied.
Ideas to lower your property tax bill
Understand and adhere to the calendar. Challenging the value of your property requires an understanding of the process for doing so AND hitting the proper deadlines. If there’s an appeals process, know it and make sure you meet their deadlines or you could be out of luck for that year.
Challenge your property’s assessed value. You have the right to appeal your property’s assessment by filing a formal appeal with your local assessor. If you can show your home was assessed for more than it’s worth compared to similar homes, you might get your tax bill reduced. If you want to appeal, you need to act fast. There are typically just a few weeks each year to appeal your assessment. So mark the date and gather evidence early if you plan to dispute it. But do your homework! Collect actual sales of similar properties that show a lower sales price, and be ready to defend the condition of your property if it is an older home. Assessors are quick to dismiss complainers with no facts to back them up.
Claim all exemptions and eligible tax breaks. Contact your local assessor’s office to see what exemptions you can claim. Many states and counties offer breaks for veterans, people with disabilities, low-income households, older residents and those in designated areas like historical districts or disaster zones.
Compare local tax rates before you buy or move. Property taxes are determined locally by counties, cities, or school districts, which means two identical homes in nearby ZIP codes can have drastically different tax bills. So always check the local tax rate before you buy or move. Look at the history of property taxes in your target neighborhood and see how it changed over the past several years. Then compare it with other homes in the area to ensure the rate increase is consistently applied.
Calculate the tax impact of renovations before building. Adding a new deck or renovating your kitchen may increase your home’s assessed value, especially if the county finds out through permits or a property inspection. So even if you don’t sell your home, upgrades can mean a bigger tax bill. Some areas reassess properties automatically after building permits are pulled. So always factor in long-term tax implications when upgrading your home.
Review your lot details for unused land. Your property tax bill covers not only the value of your house, but also the value of your land. If part of your property can’t be used, like wetlands, steep slopes, or areas with easements, ask your assessor if your bill can be adjusted.
Property taxes are one of the few taxes you can actually fight and get lowered. But you can’t do that if you don’t understand how the system works. So don’t just pay the bill without looking at it. There’s often money to be saved if you understand the details.
The U.S. tax code is constantly changing. What saved you money last year might cost you this year. Between shifting income thresholds, changing deduction rules, and overlooked credits, you now need to stay focused on your tax plan throughout the year. Here are several bits of tax wisdom that can help you lower your bill to the IRS.
Phaseouts matter (a lot). A lot of tax breaks, such as child tax credits, tax benefits for college costs, or the new senior deduction don’t disappear all at once. Instead, they phase out slowly as your income rises. This means earning a bit more could quietly cost you some of these benefits.
What you can do: Keep an eye on how much income you’re showing on paper and how it will impact these phaseouts. You might be able to stay in the sweet spot so you don’t lose the value of your deductions or credits by putting more into your retirement account or timing when you receive certain payments.
Are itemized deductions going the way of the dinosaur? Not so fast! Yes, the standard deduction is now higher than ever ($31,500 for married couples, $15,500 for singles in 2025), which has made itemizing less common. But with an increase of the state and local tax (SALT) deduction from $10,000 to $40,000, you may be shifting back to itemizing your deductions without realizing it.
What you can do: Don’t assume you’ll be taking the standard deduction again this year. Add up your potential itemized deductions, especially if your expenses vary, to see how close you are to being able to itemize. Consider bunching charitable contributions or property taxes into one year to clear the standard deduction hurdle.
Timing is everything (especially with capital gains). If you sell assets held longer than a year, you’ll likely qualify for long-term capital gains rates (0%, 15%, or 20%). But miss that time by even a day and you could pay ordinary income rates, which can be nearly double. Strategic timing can also help you harvest losses to offset gains and reduce your overall tax bill.
What you can do: If possible, hold investments that are profitable for at least one year and a day before selling to qualify for lower tax rates. Use end-of-year tax-loss harvesting to offset gains, and stagger sales across tax years if needed.
Don’t sleep on the Qualified Business Income deduction. If you’re a small business owner, self-employed, or even a gig worker, you may be eligible for a 20% deduction on your qualified business income. Planning how and when revenue hits your books could make or break your eligibility for this significant deduction.
What you can do: Review how your business is structured and how much income you’re reporting. You may be able to reduce taxable income through retirement contributions, shifting income between years, or reclassifying your business activities.
Tax-deferred doesn’t mean tax-free. Traditional 401(k)s and IRAs offer tax deferral, not tax elimination. When you withdraw funds in retirement, you’ll pay ordinary income tax on the distributions. If you expect to be in a high tax bracket in retirement, it may be a better idea to contribute to a Roth account now and pay taxes up front.
What you can do: Schedule a planning session to discuss whether diversifying your retirement accounts between traditional and Roth makes sense for your situation. Also consider planning for the timing of distributions from these accounts to be as tax efficient as possible. Run long-term tax projections to decide which type of contribution makes sense today. Consider partial Roth conversions during lower-income years. Tax planning isn’t a once-a-year scramble, but rather a year-round strategy. And with these pieces of prevailing tax wisdom, you can be better prepared to cut your tax bill. Please call if you have any questions about your tax situation.
A credit score is often treated like a financial grade. It’s the number people look at when you are applying for a loan, renting an apartment, or even getting a job. But while it’s important in certain situations, it doesn’t tell the full story of your financial health. In fact, it misses some of the most important pieces.
What a credit score really measures
Your credit score is primarily designed to help lenders assess how likely you are to repay borrowed money. It looks at factors like your payment history, credit utilization, length of credit history, types of credit, and recent credit inquiries. In other words, it’s a tool for measuring how you manage debt, not how you manage money overall.
You can have an excellent credit score and still struggle financially. You can also have a lower credit score and be in a strong financial position because you avoid using credit altogether.
What really matters for financial health
If your goal is long-term financial stability and peace of mind, there are more meaningful metrics than your credit score. Here’s what you should pay attention to:
Cash flow mastery. This is the foundation of your finances. Are you consistently spending less than you earn? Positive cash flow gives you the flexibility to save, invest, and plan for the future. Even if your income isn’t high, managing it wisely can make a big difference.
Emergency readiness. An emergency fund helps protect you from unexpected events such as a job loss, medical expenses, and home repairs. Having three to six months of living expenses saved can prevent you from going into debt during a crisis.
Debt load and structure. How much you owe, and what kind of debt it is, plays a major role in your financial health. High-interest consumer debt, such as credit card balances, can be a major drain. On the other hand, low-interest, long-term debt (like a mortgage or student loan) may be more manageable.
Savings and investments. Building wealth takes time and consistency. Regular saving, even in small amounts, can have a big impact. A credit score doesn’t measure this, but your future self will.
Financial knowledge. Understanding how your money works is essential, such as knowing how interest compounds, how taxes affect your income, and knowing how to set financial goals. You don’t need to be an expert, but increasing your financial literacy over time helps you make smarter decisions and avoid costly mistakes.
Confidence around money. Financial health isn’t just about numbers. It’s also about how you feel. You might have a great credit score but still feel anxious every time you check your bank account. Feeling stable and secure is a sign that your financial system is working for you.
Your credit score is just one small piece of the puzzle. It matters when you’re borrowing money, but it’s not a full measure of how well you’re doing financially. Treat it like a tool – useful in the right context, but not the final word.
It’s easy to overlook the ordinary. A zipper, a fork, a paperclip. Each plays a small but essential role in daily life. Yet behind many of these tools are extremely interesting, strange, or accidental histories. Here’s a closer look at the real origins of some of the objects we use every day.
The paperclip: A symbol of resistance
The paperclip may seem like a product of office supply boredom, but its story is more complicated…and even political. While several designs emerged in the 19th century, the most widely recognized version was never patented. Norwegian inventor Johan Vaaler filed a similar patent in 1899, but it was less functional than the Gem-type paperclip we know today, developed by an unknown British manufacturer.
Oddly enough, during World War II, Norwegians wore paperclips on their lapels as a silent protest against Nazi occupation. It became a symbol of resistance and unity, proof that even the smallest items can carry weight.
The fork: Once seen as excessive and unholy
The fork is now a staple of Western dining, but for centuries it was considered unnecessary, even decadent. In medieval Europe, people ate with their hands, spoons, and knives. When forks began appearing in Byzantine courts, they were viewed by some religious leaders as prideful, a sign of vanity or softness.
It wasn’t until the 17th century that forks gained acceptance in France and Italy. Catherine de’ Medici is often credited with bringing them to prominence in Europe when she married into the French royal family. By the 18th century, forks had gone mainstream, changing table manners forever.
The zipper: A name that made it stick
The zipper’s development was a slow burn. In 1893, Whitcomb Judson introduced a clasp locker meant to fasten boots and shoes. His invention, though, turned out to be bulky and unreliable. In 1913, Gideon Sundback improved the design, creating what we now recognize as the modern zipper. But it wasn’t until the B.F. Goodrich Company used it on rubber boots in the 1920s, and called them Zipper boots, that the name and invention caught on.
Zippers weren’t just for fashion. During WWII, they became standard on military gear, appreciated for their speed and simplicity. Today, billions are manufactured each year, quietly holding our world together.
The eraser: Once made of bread
Before rubber, people erased pencil marks with…bread. Crustless, balled-up bread was the go-to erasing tool from the 1500s until the late 1700s. In 1770, British engineer Edward Nairne accidentally picked up a piece of rubber instead of bread and discovered it worked better. He began marketing rubber erasers soon after.
The term rubber itself came from this use. It described a substance that could rub out pencil marks. It wasn’t until vulcanized rubber (made more durable by adding sulfur) was invented by Charles Goodyear that erasers became a durable staple of stationery.
Look for the hidden stories all around us
Everyday objects are often invisible until we pause to consider them. Yet their histories are full of innovation, cultural resistance, accidents, and reinvention. They remind us that even the most ordinary things have extraordinary stories, if we take the time to look closer.
Tax myths can spread quickly, leading to costly mistakes or missed opportunities. Here are several common tax myths along with best practices to help you stay grounded in reality.
Myth: Moving into a higher tax bracket means you’ll take home less money
Reality: The U.S. tax system is progressive, meaning your income is taxed in layers. There are currently 7 different layers, with tax rates ranging from 10% to 37%. When you enter a higher tax bracket, only the portion of income above the bracket threshold gets taxed at the higher rate, not your entire income.
Best Practice: Know your marginal tax rate! This is the tax rate of the next dollar you earn. By understanding this you can do your own calculations on the impact of any additional income you earn.
Myth: Getting a tax refund means you did something right.
Reality: A tax refund means you overpaid your taxes. It’s your money, coming back to you – without interest. Getting a big refund might feel great, but from a cash flow perspective, you’re better off adjusting your withholding so you keep more of your paycheck each month.
Best Practice: Review last year’s tax return, then update the numbers to reflect your situation for the current year. Factor in the latest changes such as tax-free tips, tax-free overtime, and increased standard deductions, including the new $6,000 deduction for seniors. Once you’ve made these adjustments, revisit your paycheck withholdings to make sure they’re on track.
Myth: You can deduct all your expenses if you’re self-employed.
Reality: Not quite. While being self-employed certainly opens up more deduction opportunities, not every expense qualifies. Only ordinary and necessary business expenses can be deducted. That family trip overseas doesn’t qualify unless it was genuinely work-related (and even then, only parts of it might qualify).
Best Practice: Set up a dedicated business bank account to handle all income and expenses related to your work. Then establish a regular schedule to transfer funds into your personal account for all non-business spending. And don’t commingle funds with your personal expenses. The IRS may be quick to throw out ALL expenses if they see this occurring.
Myth: You don’t have to report income if you didn’t receive a Form 1099.
Reality: If you earn money, the IRS expects to hear about it, regardless of whether you received a Form 1099. Many people assume that if a client or gig platform doesn’t send you a 1099, then that income doesn’t need to be reported on your tax return. But that’s not how it works. The tax code requires you to report all income, no matter how it’s documented – or if it’s not documented at all.
Best Practice: Keep a list of past 1099s to help you remember which clients or platforms have paid you before, and to double-check if you earned income from them again this year.
Please call if you have any questions about your tax situation.
